Though they seem independent, aloof and unpredictable, cats are creatures of habit. And yet, there’s no fathoming a cat. Why would one choose a small, cramped box, sink or cubbyhole over a more open space with all its possibilities?

For lots of reason. Here are a few:

Smaller spaces are safer. Most cats who need to sleep deeply will seek out a denlike structure. A bathroom sink, as it turns out, seems more secure to a cat than a couch. Wild cats require stealth for survival. So it is that hiding in small spaces helps cats be more successful. If you’re about to give birth, a comfy hidey-hole is just the ticket. Momma cats are unlikely to birth their babies in places predators can see them. Cats like to be warm. Small spots are quite simply cozier. So it is that our seemingly self-sufficient pets seek comfort in ways we may think unusual for such independent creatures. But it makes sense: Even the more secure among us want a place to feel snug and sheltered. Even if it’s something as surprising as a soda pop box.

courtesy of vet st

Q. Do dogs know how to swim naturally? If not, how can I teach my dog? She’s a Border Collie mix, and she gets very hot when I take her to the lake with us. A. Dogs will naturally start “dog paddling” when they find themselves in water, but that doesn’t mean that they can stay afloat for any length of time, that they like being in the water, or that they can safely swim.

Dogs who can’t swim — though they may try their best — are typically those with large, heavy chests in relation to their hindquarters, and they often have short muzzles. These dogs may swim well enough to splash about a little under supervision while wearing a life vest, but that’s about it. The most extreme example of these breeds, the Bulldog, is so poorly built for water survival that breeders and rescue groups often require a home check to ensure that a pool is safely fenced off, and that an emergency monitor is used to alert those inside the house when something, such as a child or dog, breaks the surface of the water. Bulldogs typically sink like rocks.

How to Teach Your Dog to Swim There aren’t any physical reasons why your Border Collie can’t swim, but she may nonetheless be reluctant to do so. Even in breeds that were bred for swimming — such as Labrador Retrievers — you’ll occasionally find a dog who doesn’t enjoy being in the water. You can try encouraging your dog to swim by going out and seeing if she’ll follow, and rewarding her with praise. Dogs who love to play fetch will often go out after tennis balls or other floating toys. You might get her swimming by letting her get comfortable at a certain depth and then ... read more]]> BY DR. MARTY BECKER

Q. Do dogs know how to swim naturally? If not, how can I teach my dog? She’s a Border Collie mix, and she gets very hot when I take her to the lake with us.
A. Dogs will naturally start “dog paddling” when they find themselves in water, but that doesn’t mean that they can stay afloat for any length of time, that they like being in the water, or that they can safely swim.

Dogs who can’t swim — though they may try their best — are typically those with large, heavy chests in relation to their hindquarters, and they often have short muzzles. These dogs may swim well enough to splash about a little under supervision while wearing a life vest, but that’s about it. The most extreme example of these breeds, the Bulldog, is so poorly built for water survival that breeders and rescue groups often require a home check to ensure that a pool is safely fenced off, and that an emergency monitor is used to alert those inside the house when something, such as a child or dog, breaks the surface of the water. Bulldogs typically sink like rocks.

How to Teach Your Dog to Swim
There aren’t any physical reasons why your Border Collie can’t swim, but she may nonetheless be reluctant to do so. Even in breeds that were bred for swimming — such as Labrador Retrievers — you’ll occasionally find a dog who doesn’t enjoy being in the water. You can try encouraging your dog to swim by going out and seeing if she’ll follow, and rewarding her with praise. Dogs who love to play fetch will often go out after tennis balls or other floating toys. You might get her swimming by letting her get comfortable at a certain depth and then throwing the toy in water that’s progressively deeper. Finally, many dogs will swim just to join in the fun if they are around other dogs who enjoy swimming.

But again, even if your dog comes to love swimming, safety is still up to you. Make sure your dog doesn’t get overly tired, and be aware that puppies and older dogs tire more easily and seem less aware of their fatigue until it’s too late. Stay away from strong currents and areas with underwater debris that can entangle a dog.

Keep Your Non-Swimmer Comfortable
If your dog never comes to enjoy swimming, she can still enjoy going to the lake with you. Make sure she wears a life vest. Booties wouldn’t hurt if the sand is sizzling. She also must have nonstop access to cool drinking water and must be able to get into the shade as often as she wants. When she starts to get hot, take a bucket and soak her frequently, especially her belly. Be aware, always, of signs of heat stress.

If you’re able to keep her cool, she’ll be able to enjoy her lake time with you safely, even if she never does learn to like swimming all that much.

Let me start my four fun dog facts with four questions.

Does it drive you crazy your dog doesn’t chew his food better? Ever been mortified to see him eat his own vomit? Why doesn’t he get sick eating raw meat? And why does he insist on licking his wounds and yours too? There are perfectly good reasons for these things and I’m happy to share them with you. But really, he’s just following the rules of nature.

Dog Chewing We tend to think our dogs should act as we do but their teeth aren’t made for chewing and neither is their jaw. I know you’ve noticed their teeth look different. They aren’t sharp just for self protection: they’re made to grab hold and tear pieces of meat to swallow.

There are also larger spaces between their teeth and they lack molars which are used to grind their food.

And last but not least, (and where I got my first “aha” moment) their jaws are rigid. They cannot move their lower jaw from side to side like we can in order to grind their food, so molars would be useless.

For humans, the act of chewing releases enzymes in our saliva to help break down the food. Dog digestion doesn’t work that way.

Eating Dog Vomit Even though I know better, it still gets to me seeing my dogs eat their meal, throw it up and then eat it again. What do I do about it? I walk away and let them finish. It doesn’t happen often but the fact is this kind of dog vomiting is Mother Nature’s doing and it’s a good thing.

Nature knows there is a certain “fit” needed going down the esophagus in order to be digested properly. Think of it as a built in filter to be sure the right ratio of food to stomach ... read more]]> By Andrea Partee

Let me start my four fun dog facts with four questions.

Does it drive you crazy your dog doesn’t chew his food better?
Ever been mortified to see him eat his own vomit?
Why doesn’t he get sick eating raw meat?
And why does he insist on licking his wounds and yours too?
There are perfectly good reasons for these things and I’m happy to share them with you. But really, he’s just following the rules of nature.

Dog Chewing
We tend to think our dogs should act as we do but their teeth aren’t made for chewing and neither is their jaw. I know you’ve noticed their teeth look different. They aren’t sharp just for self protection: they’re made to grab hold and tear pieces of meat to swallow.

There are also larger spaces between their teeth and they lack molars which are used to grind their food.

And last but not least, (and where I got my first “aha” moment) their jaws are rigid. They cannot move their lower jaw from side to side like we can in order to grind their food, so molars would be useless.

For humans, the act of chewing releases enzymes in our saliva to help break down the food. Dog digestion doesn’t work that way.

Eating Dog Vomit
Even though I know better, it still gets to me seeing my dogs eat their meal, throw it up and then eat it again. What do I do about it? I walk away and let them finish. It doesn’t happen often but the fact is this kind of dog vomiting is Mother Nature’s doing and it’s a good thing.

Nature knows there is a certain “fit” needed going down the esophagus in order to be digested properly. Think of it as a built in filter to be sure the right ratio of food to stomach acid is maintained for good digestion.

If the fit isn’t just right, the food is promptly sent back up and out. While we tend to think of it is disgusting, I have a feeling our dogs think it’s a special treat to eat twice at one meal.

Why Don’t They Get Sick Eating Raw Meat Anyway?
Okay, so you know they don’t but you’re not quite sure why. There are a couple of reasons. One, the amount of hydrochloric acid in the dog’s gut is far higher than ours. Hydrochloric acid helps to kill bacteria and it’s also needed to break down those great big chunks of food in order to absorb the nutrients from them.

If the stomach acid doesn’t kill the bacteria in the food, there is a backup plan. The canine intestinal tract is shorter than ours so harmful bacteria won’t get a chance to stay too long and wreak havoc.

Wound Licking
I find it a bit humorous now, but I remember a moment a long time ago when I left the vet’s office and they told me not to let my dog lick her wound because they didn’t want it to get infected. Perhaps I misunderstood.

Still, wanting to do as I was told, I watched her like a hawk and stopped her from licking her paw for hours. Then it happened. Not only did she lick her paw, she took out the two tiny stitches in it. Amazingly, it healed just fine.

Why? Once again, Mother Nature knew what she was doing. Dog saliva kills bacteria.

Now imagine the looks on the faces of other moms at the park when one of my kids fell and I didn’t stop the dog from licking a scraped knee or elbow. Not only did it sooth my little ones, they healed quickly as well.

courtesy of dogs naturally

Q. Does clipping my cat’s nail tips keep him from scratching the furniture? If not, what’s the point? A. The point is to get rid of those sharp points. There are actually a handful of reasons why it’s a good idea to clip your cat’s nails, and reducing your cat’s ability to shred your furniture is just one of them. Really, though, I wouldn’t rate that at number one, especially since redirecting your cat’s natural desire to scratch isn’t that hard. With so many incredible choices in cat trees, and scratching pads, posts, trays and more, your furniture is unlikely to be your cat’s first choice.

So why nip the tips? It makes life more comfortable for both you and your cat. If you have one of those cats who needs to knead you — and who pokes those sharp tips into your skin — you know what I’m talking about. Taking off the very end of those claws will make this loving gesture something you can enjoy, rather than dread. For your cat, clipping his tips can prevent painful broken claws that can result when a sharp tip gets caught in the carpet. And yes, having those claws a little less lethal will reduce the damage should your fashion-conscious cat decide to give the corner of your sofa a hip new “distressed” look.

Get Your Cat Comfortable With the Clipper Clipping your cat’s nail tips doesn’t have to be a struggle. If you start when your cat’s a kitten, it will probably never be a big deal. (And clipping is a far better strategy than declawing.) But even if you start today, with an adult cat, you’ll probably both get through it just fine. You can use a small clipper made for feline nails, or you can use a human ... read more]]> BY DR. MARTY BECKER

Q. Does clipping my cat’s nail tips keep him from scratching the furniture? If not, what’s the point?
A. The point is to get rid of those sharp points. There are actually a handful of reasons why it’s a good idea to clip your cat’s nails, and reducing your cat’s ability to shred your furniture is just one of them. Really, though, I wouldn’t rate that at number one, especially since redirecting your cat’s natural desire to scratch isn’t that hard. With so many incredible choices in cat trees, and scratching pads, posts, trays and more, your furniture is unlikely to be your cat’s first choice.

So why nip the tips? It makes life more comfortable for both you and your cat. If you have one of those cats who needs to knead you — and who pokes those sharp tips into your skin — you know what I’m talking about. Taking off the very end of those claws will make this loving gesture something you can enjoy, rather than dread. For your cat, clipping his tips can prevent painful broken claws that can result when a sharp tip gets caught in the carpet. And yes, having those claws a little less lethal will reduce the damage should your fashion-conscious cat decide to give the corner of your sofa a hip new “distressed” look.

Get Your Cat Comfortable With the Clipper
Clipping your cat’s nail tips doesn’t have to be a struggle. If you start when your cat’s a kitten, it will probably never be a big deal. (And clipping is a far better strategy than declawing.) But even if you start today, with an adult cat, you’ll probably both get through it just fine. You can use a small clipper made for feline nails, or you can use a human nail-clipper — I’ve used both, and both work equally well. Since nail clippers work best when they are sharp, be sure to change the blades or replace the entire clipper regularly, depending on the model. You should also have styptic powder on hand, just in case you nick the quick, which shows as a pink center in light nails.

If you’re working with an adult cat, begin with no clipping at all. Use treats, gentle caresses and loving words to get your cat used to being relaxed and happy in your lap. Slowly introduce touching, then handling, your pet’s paws. Watch for negative body language: If your cat’s tail becomes more active, or his ears flip back, stop until he relaxes again. Force never works with a cat; it’ll damage your relationship and may get you both hurt. If at any point your cat flips out, don’t fight to hold him — just let go.

Once your cat is comfortable letting you handle his paws, move on to pressing gently to expose his nails. Next, introduce the trimmer, but go slowly; touch it to his paw and then put it away. The goal eventually — and how long it takes will depend on the cat — is to get your cat to let you clip just one nail tip. And that’s really all you’re doing with a cat: Blunting the very sharp edge, as opposed to shortening the nail, as we do with dogs.

Give Your Cat Regular Manicures
The nail tips will be sharp again within a couple of weeks if left alone. To make maintenance easy, keep the clipper next to the chair where you’re most likely to sit with the cat in your lap. Check nails frequently and clip as needed. You’ll also be less likely to draw blood if you trim his nails on a regular basis — which means that your cat will be less likely to draw your blood in return. If you do draw blood, however, press a little styptic powder gently against the bleeding with the tip of a cotton swab.

Some cats may eventually allow you to trim all the nails in one session, but if your cat draws the line at one or two a night, let it stand at that. Always end a session in a positive way: Your goal should be a happy, purring cat who no longer has the nails of Freddy Krueger. If you need help with the clipping technique or have any questions or concerns, ask at your cat’s next wellness check. Your veterinary team will be happy to walk you through the steps.

courtesy of vet st

Many dogs, including Airedales, Golden Retrievers, Manchester Terriers and Miniature Schnauzers, like to hide things in safe places. But your pooch doesn’t need a bank safe-deposit box to protect his prized possessions. All he needs is some soft dirt or a pile of laundry. And your dog won’t confine himself to burying his things — he’ll take yours too. One minute your watch is on the nightstand, and the next it has disappeared. Missing the TV remote? Check that fresh dirt mound in your backyard. That lump under the sofa cushion? Your dog’s toy or your toddler’s doll.

What Your Dog Wants Your dog is following an ancestral urge. Thousands of years ago, roaming dogs did not know where their next meal would come from, so after a better-than-expected hunt, they buried surplus food to hide it from scavengers. When these dogs became hungry, they returned to the secret location and dug up their leftovers. Dirt also served as Mother Nature’s refrigerator, keeping buried bones fresher longer by protecting them from sunlight. This natural “aging” made the bone tastier too.

Have you been too generous with treats and toys? Your dog may simply be storing extras in a safe place to retrieve later and possibly share with his canine visitors.

Some dogs cannot resist bling and are attracted to shiny objects, such as watches and earrings. They grab these items off counters and dash to a certain burying place, perhaps under the cushion in a dog bed or in the laundry basket. Dogs often engage in this type of grab-and-hide behavior when they are lonely, bored or seeking attention. They are not being mean or malicious — they hope their actions will garner playtime with you.

How to Respond Dogs have long been advocates of the “save for a rainy day” mentality, and their ... read more]]> BY ARDEN MOORE

Many dogs, including Airedales, Golden Retrievers, Manchester Terriers and Miniature Schnauzers, like to hide things in safe places. But your pooch doesn’t need a bank safe-deposit box to protect his prized possessions. All he needs is some soft dirt or a pile of laundry. And your dog won’t confine himself to burying his things — he’ll take yours too. One minute your watch is on the nightstand, and the next it has disappeared. Missing the TV remote? Check that fresh dirt mound in your backyard. That lump under the sofa cushion? Your dog’s toy or your toddler’s doll.

What Your Dog Wants
Your dog is following an ancestral urge. Thousands of years ago, roaming dogs did not know where their next meal would come from, so after a better-than-expected hunt, they buried surplus food to hide it from scavengers. When these dogs became hungry, they returned to the secret location and dug up their leftovers. Dirt also served as Mother Nature’s refrigerator, keeping buried bones fresher longer by protecting them from sunlight. This natural “aging” made the bone tastier too.

Have you been too generous with treats and toys? Your dog may simply be storing extras in a safe place to retrieve later and possibly share with his canine visitors.

Some dogs cannot resist bling and are attracted to shiny objects, such as watches and earrings. They grab these items off counters and dash to a certain burying place, perhaps under the cushion in a dog bed or in the laundry basket. Dogs often engage in this type of grab-and-hide behavior when they are lonely, bored or seeking attention. They are not being mean or malicious — they hope their actions will garner playtime with you.

How to Respond
Dogs have long been advocates of the “save for a rainy day” mentality, and their mighty noses faithfully guide them back to the places where they have buried their treasures. But that doesn’t mean you need to let your dog stash his treasures all over your house.

To minimize this type of hoarding, pick up spare toys or dog bones. Limit your dog’s access to one or two toys at a time and store the rest away. Rotate your dog’s toys regularly. By limiting the quantity and providing variety, you may lessen your dog’s strong urge to take his treasures out into the yard and bury them.

Indoors, direct her need to bury by teaching your dog to hide a favorite bone or toy under a blanket. Make it a fun game you play a few times a week. Strive to improve your dog’s vocabulary understanding by having her correctly bury the right object.

Vet’s Note
Burying things can be a nuisance for you, but it can be a health hazard for your dog. The backyard marinating of an old bone may cause stomach upset or diarrhea in your dog. If this is the case, she needs vet care. For the sake of her health, do not let your dog take edible items out to the backyard to bury.

courtesy of vetstreet

Diabetes usually occurs when a dog is seven to nine years old. I have only seen a few cases of juvenile diabetes in the past 37 years with most cases being in older dogs.

Female dogs are more at risk than males because of the changes in their reproductive hormones every time they go through a season. Breeds that are prone to developing this disease include Miniature Pinschers, Cairn Terriers, Dachshunds, Poodles, Beagles, Miniature Schnauzers and Keeshonds. The genetic makeup of these dogs makes them more prone to developing diabetes than other breeds.

The incidence of canine diabetes is one out of every ten dogs worldwide. The sad story is that it is slowly increasing over time, just as it is in the human population. It is interesting to note that over the past 37 years of practice, I’ve also seen the rate of cancer increase from 5% to 55% in both dogs and cats – as well as an exponential increase in autoimmune disease in general.

Throughout the years, I’ve noted an increase in better diets on the market. I also notice that people are being more careful with chemicals for themselves and their pets. In spite of their efforts, their pets are still suffering this increase in chronic and autoimmune disease. I believe the common denominator in all of these chronic diseases is vaccines as we know them today. Vaccines have been medically proven to have the potential to trigger autoimmune disease in all animals.

I advise all of my clients not to vaccinate their animals, especially if they have any chronic issues, including but not limited to dermatitis, ear infections, urinary tract infections, irritable bowel disease, arthritis of any kind, liver, pancreas or kidney disease of any kind, allergies, food allergies, eye or ear discharge ... read more]]> by Stephen R. Blake DVM, CVA, CVH

Diabetes usually occurs when a dog is seven to nine years old. I have only seen a few cases of juvenile diabetes in the past 37 years with most cases being in older dogs.

Female dogs are more at risk than males because of the changes in their reproductive hormones every time they go through a season. Breeds that are prone to developing this disease include Miniature Pinschers, Cairn Terriers, Dachshunds, Poodles, Beagles, Miniature Schnauzers and Keeshonds. The genetic makeup of these dogs makes them more prone to developing diabetes than other breeds.

The incidence of canine diabetes is one out of every ten dogs worldwide. The sad story is that it is slowly increasing over time, just as it is in the human population. It is interesting to note that over the past 37 years of practice, I’ve also seen the rate of cancer increase from 5% to 55% in both dogs and cats – as well as an exponential increase in autoimmune disease in general.

Throughout the years, I’ve noted an increase in better diets on the market. I also notice that people are being more careful with chemicals for themselves and their pets. In spite of their efforts, their pets are still suffering this increase in chronic and autoimmune disease. I believe the common denominator in all of these chronic diseases is vaccines as we know them today. Vaccines have been medically proven to have the potential to trigger autoimmune disease in all animals.

I advise all of my clients not to vaccinate their animals, especially if they have any chronic issues, including but not limited to dermatitis, ear infections, urinary tract infections, irritable bowel disease, arthritis of any kind, liver, pancreas or kidney disease of any kind, allergies, food allergies, eye or ear discharge of any kind, behavior issues, breeding issues, cystitis, nail issues, coat issues, digestive issues of any kind, seizure issues, neurological issues of any kind or musculoskeletal issues.

That’s a pretty lengthy list, but it’s important to note that it states right on the vaccine handout “only give to healthy animals.” All of the symptoms I listed are seen in an unhealthy animal; ergo, do not vaccinate!

Some of the common symptoms of diabetes are lethargy, unexplained weight gain or loss, increased water consumption and excessive urination. If you see any of these symptoms, you can have the urine checked by your local veterinarian or get some glucose test strips to test your dog’s urine at home. I recommend doing multiple samples over a period of a few days, before and after eating, to make sure you do not miss a spike in the blood sugar.

Most diabetic cases require the use of injectable insulin to help control the dog’s glucose levels. You will need to be under the care of a veterinarian to establish the correct amount of insulin for your pet. Every case of diabetes that has come to me has been on insulin.

The most important part of any treatment protocol is to stop labelling the dog as diabetic. Where your intentions go, energy flows! Make sure your energy flows from your heart with the vision of your dog being healthy, not diseased. Dogs pick up on your thoughts and actions, so make them always positive!

I have been able to get a few dogs off the insulin or at least reduce their requirements by using the following treatment protocol:

Place the dog on a grain free diet
No vaccines ever
No topical flea, tick or spot on products
No heartworm preventative drugs
Never give cortisone. Almost all of the cases of canine diabetes I have seen were on cortisone prior to diagnosis – and of course vaccinated as well
Massage cinnamon essential oil daily on the pads of their feet
Put them on bovine colostrum – the insulin-like growth factors help with regulating blood sugars
Give Standard Process Canine Intestinal Support and Canine Whole Body Support in each meal
Provide filtered water, preferably a charcoal filtering system
Give the gemmotherapies fig tree, hedge maple and European walnut – 5 drops of each with each meal for support of the pancreas and GI system
Provide a homeopathic simillimum that fits their particular case
Provide plenty of exercise
I recommend home testing rather taking the dog into the hospital for monitoring their insulin needs. The exception would be if they are brittle and you are unable to do so at home. The new testing devices work well on the ears of dogs and cats and you get a more accurate reading because of the absence of stress they experience in the veterinary clinic.

I also recommend the use of the essential oil frankincense applied to the pads of the rear feet. I call this aroma-acupuncture. According to Traditional Chinese Medicine, the meridians for the spleen, pancreas and stomach come out on the toes of the rear feet. I have the caregiver massage a few drops into their dog’s feet once per day, as long as the dog goes along with it. If not, then diffuse the frankincense in the room where he sleeps.

This is an excellent remedy for helping the body remove scar tissue. This often forms in diabetic cases where there is a history of pancreatitis prior to the overt diabetes.

My personal feeling about diabetes is that it is simply an acute manifestation of chronic disease. By this I mean there is a predisposing condition underlying the diabetes that allowed this animal to come down with these particular symptoms. Allopathic medicine has no tools for dealing with chronic disease and can only try to manage the symptoms with no real hope of cure.

My advice for prevention is to do your best to avoid putting anything in your friend that has the potential for causing harm. I have listed above what I feel are the main triggers for any chronic disease. Remember the quote, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!”

In closing, I would like to share a quote from one of my favorite people in history, Dr. Albert Schweitzer. “What great doctors do is awaken the doctor within.”

The goal in caring for any being who is out of balance energetically is to help him come back into balance and awaken the healer within. Remember our goal is to always prevent suffering and always do no harm!

courtesy of Dogs Naturally

Housekeeping is one of those things. There are so many toxins in our cleaning supplies that if ingredients were listed on their labels, we would never, ever buy them. Most contain a potpourri of toxins, including artificial fragrances, acids, bleach, ammonia, and more. These toxins can be inhaled or absorbed through the skin, and can cause illness, including neurological problems, hormonal issues, and cancer. Some contain antibacterial agents that can actually make bacteria stronger. Many are made using petrochemicals, further de- pleting oil supplies. All wash into our soil and water supplies.

According to US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) studies, indoor air pollution may be two to five times, and sometimes more than 100 times, higher than outdoor air pollution. Indoor air pollution is caused by many things, not just cleaning supplies; but cleaning products are things that we can pretty easily control. Some air pollution sources, such as air fresheners, release contaminants more or less continuously. Other sources, including cleaning products and pesticides, release pollutants intermittently. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are one culprit. According to the EPA, VOCs are chemicals that are found in many household products, including aerosol sprays, cleansers and disinfectants, moth repellents and air fresheners, as well as dry cleaned clothing. VOCs evaporate into the air when these products are used or sometimes even when they are stored. VOCs irritate the eyes, nose and throat, and cause headaches, nausea, and damage to the liver, kidneys, and central nervous system. Some of them can cause cancer.

Cancer kills roughly 20 to 25 percent of our canine companions in the U.S. and Canada. Weakened immune systems can open the door to cancer. Toxins weaken immune systems.

In people, 80% of cancers are linked to the environment. One study reported that from 1948 to 1990 ... read more]]> By Deb Percival Courtesty of Dogs Naturally Mag

Housekeeping is one of those things. There are so many toxins in our cleaning supplies that if ingredients were listed on their labels, we would never, ever buy them. Most contain a potpourri of toxins, including artificial fragrances, acids, bleach, ammonia, and more. These toxins can be inhaled or absorbed through the skin, and can cause illness, including neurological problems, hormonal issues, and cancer. Some contain antibacterial agents that can actually make bacteria stronger. Many are made using petrochemicals, further de- pleting oil supplies. All wash into our soil and water supplies.

According to US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) studies, indoor air pollution may be two to five times, and sometimes more than 100 times, higher than outdoor air pollution. Indoor air pollution is caused by many things, not just cleaning supplies; but cleaning products are things that we can pretty easily control. Some air pollution sources, such as air fresheners, release contaminants more or less continuously. Other sources, including cleaning products and pesticides, release pollutants intermittently. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are one culprit. According to the EPA, VOCs are chemicals that are found in many household products, including aerosol sprays, cleansers and disinfectants, moth repellents and air fresheners, as well as dry cleaned clothing. VOCs evaporate into the air when these products are used or sometimes even when they are stored. VOCs irritate the eyes, nose and throat, and cause headaches, nausea, and damage to the liver, kidneys, and central nervous system. Some of them can cause cancer.

Cancer kills roughly 20 to 25 percent of our canine companions in the U.S. and Canada. Weakened immune systems can open the door to cancer. Toxins weaken immune systems.

In people, 80% of cancers are linked to the environment. One study reported that from 1948 to 1990 there was a 48% increase in cancer rates. When we, and our pets, inhale toxic fumes, the poisons go directly into the bloodstream and then to the internal organs.

In 2008, the Washington, D.C. based Environmental Working Group conducted a study to determine the effects of cleaning solutions on our pets, and found high levels of toxic chemicals from house- hold cleaners in dogs and cats. For dogs, blood and urine samples were contaminated with 35 chemicals, including 11 carcinogens, 31 chemicals toxic to the reproductive system, and 24 neurotoxins.

Obviously the cleaners, waxes, and sealants/stain barriers we use on our floors and carpets are critical – dogs spend a lot of time lying, sitting, and walking “barefoot” on these areas, and occasionally find something to lick off the floor – or off their paws. And clearly the detergents we use on their dishes and their beds can be hazardous. Less obvious, but just as dangerous, are most commercial cleaners, flea bombs and sprays, and even pet shampoos.

To read about ingredients and cleaners that should be avoided, visit this website. Even commercial products that claim to be safe may not be. Descriptions like “natural”, “eco-friendly, “non-toxic,” or, frighteningly, even “organic” don’t ensure a product is safe. “Organic” in chemistry refers to chemicals that are carbon-based, including some that release harmful fumes and may cause brain damage or cancer, according to the Organic Consumers Association.

Green Your Cleaning

The good news is that using non-toxic cleaners is easy, they can clean as well as the commercial products, and they cost much less. With a little preparation (half an hour at the grocery store and half an hour of mixing your own cleaners), you can have a sparkling house that will make your mother-in-law proud, make your home safe for you, your children and your pets; and you’ll save money doing it.

Ingredients: white vinegar, lemon juice, baking soda, Castile soap, tea tree oil, olive oil, empty plastic spray bottles, jars with tops, reusable dusting cloths, old cloth towels or diapers, spatula or cardboard (useful for scooping up solids), club soda, plastic bristle scrub brush and/or dobie-type of sponge, permanent marker to label each container.

Deodorizer/Antibacterial (spray bottle)
Use straight 5 percent white vinegar. Straight vinegar deodorizes; and kills most molds, bacteria and germs. Just spray it on and wipe or rinse it off.

Hard Floors and Surfaces
Mix vinegar 50/50 with water as a general cleaner, especially for floors.

Toilet Bowl:
Spray or pour a cup of vinegar in the bowl, let it stand an hour, then scrub, with or without baking soda sprinkled on the brush.

Windows & Mirrors (spray bottle)
Mix ¼-½ teaspoon Castile soap with three tablespoons vinegar and 2 cups water. For stubborn fingerprints, use a dab of rubbing alcohol and a dry cloth.

All-Purpose Spray Cleaner (spray bottle)
Mix a few drops of Castile soap with about 2 cups of water.

Furniture Polish (container with lid)
Mix ½ teaspoon oil, such as olive, or better yet, jojoba (which doesn’t go rancid), which will condition the wood, with ¼ cup white distilled vinegar or fresh lemon juice, to lift dirt out of the wood.

Lemon Oil Duster (container with lid)
Mix 10 drops of pure lemon oil with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and a few drops of olive oil or jojoba.

Sinks, Tubs, Tiles, and Pots & Pans (mix on the spot)
Mix ½ cup of baking soda and a little Castile soap. Scoop onto a sponge or mesh cleaning pad and scrub. Baking soda alone works almost as well; I keep a shaker bottle of baking soda at the kitchen sink and one in my cleaning kit, which I refill from large containers.

Carpet Deodorizer
Sprinkle baking soda around the room. If you like, add a little dried crushed lavender. Allow it to sit for about 30 minutes, then vacuum.

Dog-Specific Cleaning
Urine or Poop
For urine on a hard surface, wipe up liquid with a cloth. Spray 50/50 white vinegar and water solution on the stain and let it sit for several minutes. Then, blot the solution up with a clean cloth. If the spot stinks, pour some baking soda onto the area and let it sit for a few minutes before wiping up with a damp cloth.

For urine on carpet, try to clean it when it’s wet. If that’s not possible put a little warm water or club soda on the stain, wait a few seconds, and start to blot with a cloth. Follow with a 50/50 water- vinegar spray; let it sit a few minutes; blot again. Pour baking soda on the spot, let it sit overnight, then vacuum.

For poop, remove solid matter, then blot up moisture with rags or paper towels. Vacuum up any loose bits. Then follow the procedure for urine removal above.

Vomit
The acid in vomit can stain fast, so scoop it up, adding warm water to get any that doesn’t come up easily. Coat the area with baking soda, let it dry, vacuum it up, then pour some club soda on and blot it up. If the area is discolored, try an oxy clean product, or another nontoxic cleaner/stain remover formulated for pet stains (find one at your health food store). Enzymatic cleaners ‘digest’ stains, so give them some time to work.

Blood
For fresh stains, rub an ice cube over the stain, then rinse with cold water. Blot. Put 3% hydrogen peroxide on the spot (hydrogen peroxide loses its power after a year, so make sure it’s fresh). Let it bubble. Blot. Repeat. Rinse. Blot. Other potential solutions: milk, followed by cool water rinse; or a corn starch/water paste left until dry and then vacuumed; or a paste made from meat tenderizing crystals and cold water – let it stand for an hour, then rinse.

Cat refuse to snuggle with you while you relax on the couch? Join the cat owners’ club! Only the cuddliest kitties will tolerate being picked up and held — even for a short while. Why? Consider it yet another reason cats have a reputation as independent creatures who prefer to make up their own minds about how they interact with us.

But there are plenty of other reasons your cat scampers away when you try to hold her. Some cats were never socialized well with humans as kittens; others may never feel safe in a human’s arms because they are afraid of being dropped. And older, more frail cats may find it uncomfortable to be scooped up because the unexpected movement can cause joint pain.

In any case, most cats can be convinced to sit on or next to you when lured with treats –– just not necessarily in your arms.

Remember, cats tend to think the only good ideas are theirs. And being suddenly lifted four feet in the air was probably not on kitty’s agenda for the day.

This article was written by a Veterinarian courtesty of vet st

Many of us love the smell of lavender, cinnamon or jasmine, but what about our pets?

Aromatherapy has been touted to reduce anxiety, enhance energy and induce relaxation in people. But there are few scientific studies that have looked at the use of aromatherapy for pets and whether it has the same effects in them. As a result, there are certain rules of thumb that should be followed whenever you use these products around your pets.

Scents Can Be Toxic Aromatherapy uses essential oils to create all those wonderful scents that we humans love to breathe in deeply and enjoy. It’s important to realize, however, that many of these substances that seem relaxing to us are, in fact, volatile compounds, which means they can be potentially toxic to pets at certain concentrations. Animals and people are different in how they react to these substances, and your veterinarian should always be consulted before using these products around your four-footed family members. Keep in mind that what is safe for use around humans is not necessarily safe to use on or near our animals. These essential oils can be inadvertently inhaled by your pet, consumed by licking or actually eating the substance, or absorbed through the skin. This is a concern because many of these substances can be harmful.

Scents Can Be Irritating One of the key things to understand is that dogs and cats have a much better sense of smell than we do. What smells good to us may be overwhelming for them. You wouldn’t want to be trapped on an elevator with an overly perfumed companion, so always make sure your pets have a way to escape from the smells that you think are wonderful — those same scents may be irritating to them. A dog’s sense of smell may be ... read more]]> BY DR. TINA WISMER

Many of us love the smell of lavender, cinnamon or jasmine, but what about our pets?

Aromatherapy has been touted to reduce anxiety, enhance energy and induce relaxation in people. But there are few scientific studies that have looked at the use of aromatherapy for pets and whether it has the same effects in them. As a result, there are certain rules of thumb that should be followed whenever you use these products around your pets.

Scents Can Be Toxic
Aromatherapy uses essential oils to create all those wonderful scents that we humans love to breathe in deeply and enjoy. It’s important to realize, however, that many of these substances that seem relaxing to us are, in fact, volatile compounds, which means they can be potentially toxic to pets at certain concentrations. Animals and people are different in how they react to these substances, and your veterinarian should always be consulted before using these products around your four-footed family members. Keep in mind that what is safe for use around humans is not necessarily safe to use on or near our animals. These essential oils can be inadvertently inhaled by your pet, consumed by licking or actually eating the substance, or absorbed through the skin. This is a concern because many of these substances can be harmful.

Scents Can Be Irritating
One of the key things to understand is that dogs and cats have a much better sense of smell than we do. What smells good to us may be overwhelming for them. You wouldn’t want to be trapped on an elevator with an overly perfumed companion, so always make sure your pets have a way to escape from the smells that you think are wonderful — those same scents may be irritating to them. A dog’s sense of smell may be thousands or tens of thousands of times more sensitive than ours. And while cats are not as talented in the sniffing department as dogs, their sense of smell is still far more sensitive than ours. Birds in particular need to be safeguarded from strong scents — they have a very different and more sensitive respiratory tract than do humans, and the inhalation of essential oils is not recommended.

Safe to Smell Is Not Safe to Soothe
Many “natural” pet care products also appear to contain the same substances that are used in aromatherapy products. However, that does not mean that any aromatherapy product should be used indiscriminately on your pet. Essential oils in pet care products are generally constituted in greatly diluted amounts. For example, many natural flea shampoos or dips may contain essential oils, but because of the dilution of these oils with other ingredients, they are safe to use according to label directions. Always follow the directions and never assume more is better. In addition, keep in mind these are active compounds that may interact with any other medications your pet may already be prescribed.

For these reasons, do not apply 100 percent essential oils from aromatherapy products on your pet, especially on broken skin. The volatile compounds can be quickly absorbed into the bloodstream and possibly damage vital organs. Cats in particular are missing some detoxifying liver enzymes (when compared to dogs or people) and are highly sensitive to “hot” oils like cinnamon, oregano, clove, wintergreen, thyme and birch. Skin application of 100 percent tea tree oil has caused liver failure in some cats, for example. Essential oils should also never be given orally because some very common oils, including eucalyptus, tea tree, pennyroyal and thuja, can damage the liver. Seizures are possible with large doses of some essential oils. If your pet has ingested essential oils, call your veterinarian immediately.

Potpourri Precautions
While we are discussing essential oils, let’s also talk about potpourri. Liquid potpourri should never be used on, or ingested by, your pet. Liquid potpourri (the kind made for simmering pots) is a combination of essential oils and cationic detergents. These detergents are corrosive agents and can cause chemical burns in the mouth and on the skin. Be sure to keep any such burners away from areas that pets can access or climb. If your pet does accidentally come in contact with liquid potpourri, bathe him with hand-safe dish washing detergent until you can no longer smell the potpourri. If any burns are noted, or you notice that drooling or vomiting occurs, call your veterinarian immediately.

The bottom line is use common sense when dealing with scents in order to keep your pets happy and safe. And, when in doubt, ask your veterinarian.